Woven collar or cuff.



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A. L; WILLARD;

WOVEN COLLAR 0R CUFF.

APPLIGATION FILED SEPT. 20, 1901.

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INVE/V 70 a 'No. 745,305. I PATENTED NOV. 24, 1903.

A. L. WILLARD.

WOVEN COLLAR OR CUFF. APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 20, 1901.

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No. 745,305. PATENTED NOV. 24, 1903.

' A. L. WILLARD.

WOVEN COLLAR 0R CUFF.

APPLICATION FILED saw. 20. 1901. no nomzp.

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* UNITED STATES Patented i\Tovember 24, 1903.

ALFRED LEoPoLD WILLARD, or PARIS, FRANCE.

WOVEN COLLAR OR CUFF.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 745,305, dated November24, 1903.

Application filed September 20, 1901. 7 Serial No. 75.894. (No model.)

whole in a single piece of fabric of which all the parts sustain eachother, the whole being directly obtained by weaving. The manufacture ofcollars and cuffs of this kind may be carried out in the usual mannerupon any ordinary loom, and the work of finishing by hand isconsequently reduced to a very small proportion.

In the accompanying drawings, Figures 1,'

2, and 3 are diagrams illustrating some necessary characteristics of myimproved collar. Fig. 4 isa view of one form of collar. Fig. 5 is a viewofa collar, showing diagrammatically the blank, the turned-in portion,and the band portion. Fig. 6 is a similar view of a modified form ofcollar. Fig. 7 shows still another modification. Fig. 8 is across-section of the collar-blank of the collar of Fig. 5 before it ismade up. Figs. 9 and 10 are cross-sections showing the method of turningin the edges. Fig. 11 is a cross-section of a modified form of three-plyfabric. Figs. 12, 13, and 14 are a face view, a cross-section, andlongitudinal section, respectively, of a plain straight collar. Figs. 15and 16 show the band and the portion for turning over for foldingcollars. Figs. 17, 18, and 19 are views of a cuff similar to Figs. 12,13, and 14; and Figs. 20, 21, and 22 are views of a cuff having roundedcorners.

My'invention consists of a collar or cuff of such a combination as toenable it to be manufactured directly by weaving either in its entiretyor in part, thereby afiording a more economical and regular manufacturethan can be produced by hand.

A loose collar or a cuff manufactured in accordance with this inventiondirectly by Weaving diifers from similar articles produced by hand inthat it is not composed of a relatively large number of superposedcuttings of fabric, but of a single fabric of single thickness at therequired parts, such as at the portions for bu ttonholes, and which issplit in two or more leaflets at the required parts to provide for theinturns, while the various parts, which form a solid uniform thickness,are all produced by the manner of mounting and operating the loom. Aloose collar or a cuff thus constituted may be produced by a certainprocedure in weaving as actually practiced.

Some existing processes of weaving permit of obtaining from the loomfabrics composed of several superposed layers connected or not with, oneanother-such as, for example, in braces elastic or inelastic beltsformed with an obverse and an inverse, and a chain at the middle for thepurpose of giving body or thickness. Also tubular weaving may beproduced in which the sides are not fastened together, such as inlamp-wicks, tubular ties, braces, 850. Thus it is possible to producethe proper kind of fabric on somevof the existing looms. Further,continuous bands may be produced by weaving having a gradually varyingbreadth known as narrowing, this mode of weaving being utilized, forexample, for manufacturing braces or ties. It is therefore actuallypossible to obtain direct from the loom curved bands according to adefinite pattern, such as a loose collar. It is also possible to produceby weaving bands formed withbuttonholes ready-made in the loom-as, forexample, the loops of certain braces-and for this purpose Jacquard loomsmay be employed. These three kinds of weaving being compactible one withthe other it will be possible to produce directly in the loom collarsrequiring little or no hand-work at all. It should, however, be remarkedthat the form of loose collars varies considerably. In one form theremay be asmany as ten subdivisions, and it may therefore be possible thata special mounting of loom for each form and its subdivisions will betoo expensive if the production is not sufiiciently important. Thisinconvenience may be obviated by observing the following points: Inexamining any form of loose collar it will be seen that there exists onepart which for a given out I of collar may remain constant for alargenumber of difierent forms of collars, the said AM B with buttonholes e ee and of any de-- sired height, so that it maybe opened according to OD, Fig. 4:, cut into a collar A E F G H G F E B, as indicated in Fig. 3,and finish in the usual manner.

For folding collars it suffices to consider the piece A M B, Fig. 2, asa band stitched for turning down. It will therefore be seen that avariety of forms of loose collar may be produced, and it suffices tohave a pattern having the same curve A M B for all.

Figs. 5, 6, and 7 show by way of example three forms of loose collars inaccordance with myinvention which may be obtained by weaving in such amanner that the portion of darker shade is of single thickness, theremainder being woven in two separate leaflets, which permit of turningin edge. Figs. Sand 9 show a section of the fabric before the turningin, while Fig. 10 shows a section through the finished collar. It shouldbe noted that only the lower border adjacent to the buttonholes isproduced on the loom, the band being of any desired width, and the otherdouble edge is then cut oif according to the required height of collarand shape. If desired, the weaving may be carried out so as to producebetween the two leaflets a third leaflet, as shown in Fig. 11.

In case the loose collar is straight with square corners, which it isrequired to produce in large numbers, the single thickness may existthroughout the entire height of the collar by forming on the loom thetwo long edges of the collar, while forming the double edges forfinishing at the extremities of the collar. Fig. 12 shows this kind ofcollar, of which Fig. 13 is a cross-section and Fig. 14 a longitudinalsection.

Figs. 15 and 16 show the band and the portion for turning over thefolding collars.

A cuff with square corners is absolutely comparable to loose collars,Fig. 12, as will be seen from Figs. 17, 18, and 19, which show anelevation transverse and horizontal section, respectively.

Figs. 20, 21, and 22 show similar views of a cuif having roundedcorners.

In these various uses the buttonholes will be made during the weavingand by the ordinary means.

The various examples given permit of showing that it suffices to mountand operate the loom in a convenient manner for obtaining the splittinginto two or more leaflets in accordance with the form required and forproviding the buttonholes at the proper places, the said operationsbelonging to every;day operations in the art of weaving.

The advantages of my process are as follows: the facility with which auniform band capable of being adapted to a large number of forms may beproduced; a greater uniformity in the dimensionsof the collarband, whichis thus mechanically obtained and no longer at the mercy of abuttonholecutter of more or less qualification; a great solidity of thebuttonhole, as in the making of them no cutting of the threads isrequired, and, lastly, a considerable reduction in the cost of labor.

I claim as my invention- 1. A collar of woven material of greater lengththan breadth, having a longitudinal band portion with buttonholes woventherein and end portions of more than one leaflet, turned in, andstitched, substantially as described.

2. A collar of woven material, comprising a narrow longitudinal, lowerband portion for the buttonholes of one thickness of fabric, and two ormore leaflets of fabric integrally woven with said band and extendingfrom it to form the collar, all substantially as described.

3. A collar or the like of woven material having buttonholes, andcomprising a band portion for the buttonholes of one thickness,terminating in ends of two thicknesses to permit of turning in, and twoor more leaflets interwoven with the band extending from it and turnedin at their open edges to form a collar, substantially as described.

4:. A woven collar having buttonholes formed by weaving,'a neckband edgeof an irregular curve, a band of one thickness adjacent to said edgecontaining said buttonholes, two or more leaflets of fabric interwovenwith said band and extending from it to form the collar, the edges ofsaid leaflets being turned in, as described.

5. A woven collar having an edge of an irregular curve, a band of onethickness containing buttonholes formed by weaving, the body of saidcollar being formed of two or more thicknesses with turned-in edges,substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

ALFRED LEOPOLD WILLARD.

Witnesses:

GUSTAVE DUMONT, EDWARD P. MACLEAN.

